My mum's freezer is stuffed with dozens of trout (brown and rainbow) that my dad harvested last year on countless fishing trips on the river Loddon with his lovely friend Nigel, very sadly recently deceased. One of these fish always seems to go into the oven with some butter and fresh herbs from the garden and come out to be accompanied with homemade Hollandaise, a few potatoes and some greens. Tasty, but hardly groundbreaking.
Thus last night, on arriving home to find a nice fat fish defrosting on the sideboard, I decided that I would try something a little more adventurous. With no time to rifle through books, I turned to the trusty BBC recipe finder (which says something about my current level of adventurousness) and came across a recipe by a chap I'd never heard of containing a series of ingredients that I didn't honestly find terribly appealing: Bryn Williams; trout, peas, carrots and horseradish. Mr Williams improved the sound of things immensely by adding in a couple of gastropub chalkboard adjectives - 'wild trout' and 'fresh peas', but carrots, especially in combination with peas, never make me think of anything other than over-boiled school dinners, and the horseradish seemed to somehow make it sound even worse.
Well anyway, I went with it, despite a lack of real enthusiasm for the flavours and having no idea really how it would turn out - I told you I was adventurous! It was, happily, an overwhelming success.
The original recipe is on the BBC Recipe Finder but I shall give you my slightly adapted version here that takes into account that (a) I am not one to have fresh peas or gem lettuces lying around the fridge (b) I don't know what 'horseradish cream' is and (c) I didn't want to send my father's cholesterol through the roof and thus pushed the butter quantity just down below the Instant Coronary level.
Ingredients:
* 4 trout fillets, skin on and scored with a sharp knife
* salt and freshly ground black pepper
* 1 tbsp olive oil
* 400g/14oz frozen peas
* 4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into batons
* 200g/7oz streaky bacon, cut into lardons
* 150g/6.5oz cold butter, cut into cubes (the original recipe uses twice this)
* 400ml/14fl oz chicken stock
* several handfuls of baby spinach
* 4tbsp horseradish cream - I mixed horseradish sauce with some double cream
Method:
NB The trout and the pea/carrot thing really need to be done sort of simultaneously so that the trout doesn't end up overcooked
* Season the trout fillets with salt and pepper
* Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat; add the trout fillets, skin-side down, and fry without moving the fish for 4-5 minutes or until the skin is crisp and brown; turn off the heat and turn over the fish so that they cook over the residual heat
* Blanch the peas and carrots in a pan of boiling salted water for 1-2 minutes (I don't know what effect that has on frozen peas but it all turned out fine). Drain, "refresh" in cold water and then drain again
* Blanch the bacon lardons for one minute in a separate pan of boiling water, then drain well
Heat one tablespoon of the butter cubes in a large saucepan over a high heat. When the butter is foaming, add the blanched bacon lardons and fry until crisp and golden-brown
*Add the blanched carrots and peas to the bacon lardons; pour over the chicken stock and bring the mixture to the boil; reduce heat and simmer for 4-5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper
*Add the remaining butter cubes a few at a time, shaking the pan regularly until the butter melts and the sauce has thickened slightly before adding the next lot
*Add the spinach and horseradish and stir well, then remove the pan from the heat
Serving suggestion:
I put the fish and a couple of spoonfuls of the pea thing onto a plate alongside a few boiled Desiree potatoes (for fear of sending anyone into immediate cardiac arrest with buttery mash). With it, we polished off the last of our wedding white - a Peter Jakob Kühn (nice chap) Riesling Feinherb 2008 Classic.
It all came out looking pretty hideous in the photo so on this occasion you're just going to have to make it if you want to see how it turns out. I can only tell you it's far, far better than you could possibly ever imagine.